Mentzelos’ Slow Food: big on taste and value

March 06, 2013
Mentzelos Drosopoulos is a capable, low profile chef who is taking his first steps as a chef/restaurateur.
Wine List:
3.0 / 5.0
3.0 / 5.0
2.5 / 5.0

The restaurant that bears his name is tasteful with a genial atmosphere, offering tasty, affordable, mainly Greek cuisine, featuring regional touches and well sourced ingredients.

Glyfada is on the up this year also in a gastronomic sense. Mentzelos’ Slow Food is yet another restaurant that confirms the interest now presented by a coastal suburb that was once a culinary wilderness! Although to be honest, I don’t quite understand the ‘slow food’ part of the name. The fact that Mentzelos Drosopoulos embraces the principles of the international movement of Italian origin, promoted as an alternative to fast food, does not – in my opinion – justify adopting the term in the name. However, this is just a minor detail.

The restaurant itself has a genial ambience. It is well lit (perhaps too bright) with a large, open kitchen, a massive blue bookcase with National Geographic publications and a huge world map dominating the decor. I liked it, although I didn’t quite grasp the allusion behind the decoration. Besides, the cuisine is primarily Greek, as too are the ingredients, so what is the significance of this decorative... globalisation? But all these points are of little importance because chef Mentzelos Drosopoulos serves tasty, well cooked cuisine that is based on fine ingredients and moreover, at prices that rarely surpass €25 per head!

The menu is varied, with many specials of the day and several offerings that not only satisfy the taste buds but also warm the soul. One example is the eggs with kasseri cheese from Sohos in northern Greece and pastourma baked in the wood oven! I also really enjoyed the pie specials I tried, a hearty meat pie and a delicious smelling mixed greens pie, both with a delectable crisp crust. The soutzoukakia were flavoursome and light, in a thick tomato sauce and with the right amount of cumin. They were served with rich, home-style mashed potatoes. The pancetta, formed into a roll and stuffed with spinach, is juicy and tasty, although the crispy skin around the ‘roll’ is tougher than it should be and is not easy to chew. But the oven baked potatoes with lemon and thyme are amazing! And the tender, succulent pork shank even better.  

A short list of reasonably priced wines and quite a few beers, both Greek and imported, complete the picture. Our table, with beers and several glasses of wine, paid just under €50 per couple and value for money is one of this restaurant’s biggest strong points.   

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