Malconi’s forte has always been its marvellous, vibrant atmosphere. By no means however do I wish to underrate the cuisine of Giannis Kosmadakis, who is quite clearly a very talented chef. But I must say, 18 months on, that it continues to display a certain degree of inconsistency.
The menu is interesting, with a definite Italian slant, though with some Greek or international influences. In fact the best two dishes I tried belong to this second category. The first was an amazing tart with parmesan cream, caramelized onions and finely sliced pancetta; a most enjoyable dish that is the epitome of well prepared comfort food. The second was the pancetta, cooked to perfection in a vacuum pouch and served on a bed of fragrant, al dente, spiny chicory, a wonderful, flavour-packed dish that showcases the calibre of the kitchen. But when the kitchen is capable of such dishes, I can’t understand how it then stumbles over a bland risotto with asparagus and poached eggs, in which the egg dominates totally in an unsalted, uninteresting and just satisfactorily textured risotto. Nor can I see the logic behind the equally uninteresting lobster ravioli, which were betrayed by the quality of the main ingredient and too much salt, though the pasta itself was excellent.
In its category, Malconi’s generally offers very enjoyable cuisine, but I believe there is room for further improvement; “very good for its category” should not be enough.
- Phone: (+30210) 7248920-2
- Address: 43 Patriarchou Ioakim & 23 Ploutarchou Str. Kolonaki,, Athens,
- Website: http://www.malconis.gr
- Open: Daily, all day
- Price per person (€)*: €50-60
- * we do our best to reflect the actual price range per-person of a full meal including first and main courses, desert, water and half a bottle of wine or one beer depending on the type of restaurant.
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