Malconi’s: still delicious, still a hot spot!

September 19, 2013
In my first review of Malconi’s when it first opened, I predicted that it would become a hot spot. I am happy to have been proven right and delighted that the cuisine still offers some outstanding dishes!
6.5
Atmosphere:
Service:
Wine List:
4.0 / 5.0
3.5 / 5.0
3.0 / 5.0
Type:
Quality:
Cuisine:
Bar-restaurant
Modern
Italian

Malconi’s forte has always been its marvellous, vibrant atmosphere. By no means however do I wish to underrate the cuisine of Giannis Kosmadakis, who is quite clearly a very talented chef. But I must say, 18 months on, that it continues to display a certain degree of inconsistency.

The menu is interesting, with a definite Italian slant, though with some Greek or international influences. In fact the best two dishes I tried belong to this second category. The first was an amazing tart with parmesan cream, caramelized onions and finely sliced pancetta; a most enjoyable dish that is the epitome of well prepared comfort food. The second was the pancetta, cooked to perfection in a vacuum pouch and served on a bed of fragrant, al dente, spiny chicory, a wonderful, flavour-packed dish that showcases the calibre of the kitchen. But when the kitchen is capable of such dishes, I can’t understand how it then stumbles over a bland risotto with asparagus and poached eggs, in which the egg dominates totally in an unsalted, uninteresting and just satisfactorily textured risotto. Nor can I see the logic behind the equally uninteresting lobster ravioli, which were betrayed by the quality of the main ingredient and too much salt, though the pasta itself was excellent.

In its category, Malconi’s generally offers very enjoyable cuisine, but I believe there is room for further improvement; “very good for its category” should not be enough. 

Scoreboard Key
0 - 3
Poor
3.5 - 4
Average
4.5
Acceptable
5 - 5.5
Satisfactory
6 - 6.5
Good
7 - 8
Very Good
8.5 - 9
Outstanding
9.5 - 10
Excellent
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